Our videocast: In My Mug
Episodes
Sunday Nov 23, 2014
Sunday Nov 23, 2014
A staple, a big favourite, a stunning example of what a very fine coffee from Brazil should be. Brazil Fazenda Cachoeira Yellow Bourbon pulped natural from the Minas Gerais area is one of my all-time great cups. This coffee has always been fantastic, and has such amazing memories for me.
This farm sparked a massive change in what I thought I knew about coffee. I remember the first time I ever cupped this coffee: time stood still as the cup opened my mind to what great coffee is and can be. Gabriel, the farmer, continues to produce great coffee year on year. Because of the special relationship we and our importers enjoy with Gabriel, we have access to the best of the crop this year (and for the last three) on a European exclusive.
Fazenda Cachoeira da Grama has been in the Carvalho Dias family since 1890 and recently celebrated its 109th crop. It is located in São Paolo state, just 3 miles from the border with Minas Gerais state. It enjoys the typical characteristics of the mountainous Mogiana and Sul de Minas regions and is located at an altitude of 1,100-1,250 metres.
Gabriel de Carvalho Dias is one of Brazil’s leading agronomists. His family owns several farms, which border each other in this area. With a total area of 417 hectares, Fazenda Cachoeira da Grama has a coffee plantation area of 165 hectares. On this farm, everything is done manually since its topography does not allow any kind of mechanisation. The mill is located close to the spa town of Poços de Caldas, which is 45 minutes from the farm.
Social and environmental sustainability is considered to be very important here. The farm has a programme of planting native species to maintain a better ecological balance. There is also a school, a club, and an official size soccer field for the employees and workers. There are 47 houses, all with modern facilities. The waste water is treated to avoid polluting the stream that runs across the farm. The farm has a small hydroelectric plant and only buys energy during the peak harvest. Some of the original Bourbon varietal trees are as much as 108 years old.
The beans are harvested on a sheet and prepared by the ‘pulped natural’ process, which separates the greens. After harvest, the beans receive the maximum attention possible so as not to lose any of the body and cup qualities for which this region is famed.
In the cup what really hits you is the outstanding sweetness. There is chocolate, caramel, and toffee. Is this the perfect espresso? Well, it is an example of how good single estate coffee can be in the espresso machine. For me, it is close to perfection in a cup. This is the kind of coffee that has improved Brazilian coffee, showing others what is possible.
Farm: Fazenda Cachoeira da Grama
Processing: Pulped Natural
Varietal: Bourbon
Altitude: 1,100 - 1,250 m.a.s.l.
Owner: Lidolpho de Carvalho Dias & Family
City: São Sebastião da Grama
Region: Mogiana (São Paolo)